I just checked my taps.

I labeled my bag for 12/24 as 12/24 NC as the tap package must have had it printed on it.

The tap itself just says "12/24 USA Use #16 drill bit."

I believe the threads for our lug rods are 12/24 NC.

I ran my tap through a lug insert and it was correct.

Well, I'd say that pretty much clinches it! Very helpful indeed, thank you!

On top of which, armed with your confirmation, I just called the best hardware store in Toronto, Jacobs Hardware, and they have it for $4.99, so I don't even have to fool with ebay. Sweet!

[of course I'll be taking a rod with me to be absolutely certain...]

Mitch

So......this can't be done. Got the die, cut and tapered the rod, couldn't even make a shiny line in it. 100% total no-go. The excellent gentleman at Jacob's surmised that Ludwig cut the threads, and then tempered the steel.

Plan B was to get 12-24NC coupling nuts and "lengthen" the 30s T-rods with some 12-24 threaded rod [they came off a 12X25" bass drum]. However, the excellent gentleman at Jacob's informed me that 12-24 is quite rare these days, not in use much, and they don't have the coupling nuts. And here's the thing - if they don't have them, nobody does.

Plan C is running 4 single tension MIJ rods I have off a 14" bass drum through the insert-less casings on the bottom, and four-a-side originals on top. This will work as I've tested the rods through the casings and they make it through without being bent.

Plan X is finding 8 more originals, and as we all know, that ain't happening. A couple members here warned me these parts would be hard to source, and to be honest I kind of brushed it off. Had I known it would be impossible, I wouldn't have bought the kit. Nor will I ever buy drums with missing rods ever again.

Learn from my mistakes! :)

Mitch

Hey Mitch,

So you cut down a rod and removed all the threads?

Right?

Tapered the ends to get a die started?

Do you have a good die holder and a good vise?

You would have to place the rod facing up in the vise.

Then make it really tight without scratching it up.

And then place the die holder with die over the rod and put major downward pressure to get a bite as you turn the die holder that has big handles.

Cutting oil is required also.

Maybe you did all of this already.

I am a threading dude. I was threading 1" pipe today.

Thanks for your help with this.

I cut the rod to 7.5" total with a dremmel. Put enough taper on there I thought, but maybe not; maybe it should go further in to start, maybe even all the way, since I could cut the end again after threading [start with 7.75" total]. Then actually I put the die in the vice, not too tight, and turned the rod by the T-handle. Lots of pressure, but some went to stabilizing the rod due to the distance of my hand from the die. I don't have a die holder.

I can see how your method is superior...well, in fact correct. Especially if you have just enough of the rod sticking up from the vice to get a start. I think this is hardened steel though. Did a bit of googling on threading hardened steel - once you heat it it isn't hardened anymore, which seems counter-productive for the t-rod.

So the great thing is I got a pm from a member tonight who has "lots of stuff", and I don't have to worry about any of this, but it's interesting to me anyway. I'll leave my little plan X whine in the last post, so we can all learn from my ill-guided loss of faith in people...or at least have a good laugh.

Cheers,

Mitch

Before you cut the rod down to size cut the "new threads" to however far you need them(I usually go a little more than needed) and leave the die on the rod. Then cut the rod to length, add chamfer, and then remove the die. you will have a nice end that is threaded and easy to start into the receiving end.

Good luck, Gary.

That is a great idea.

It is a great idea but I don't think I can thread these hardened steel rods? I think hardened steel will shatter before it takes a thread?

I think I'll get a die handle and try green glass's procedure above just for curiosity - the member who pm'd me has these parts so I don't really need to cut down the ones I have. If and when I get the correct rods and claws, I will give these single tension rods to whoever might want them. Pic of them in first post. There are [ahem] only nine of them now...

Thanks a million guys for helping out!

Mitch