At least it didn't come out too small! That would be bad. When you get these finished, let's see the kit all together. Thanks for taking the time to post your experience with this and for all the great info. I'll let you know how mine turn out when I get to it.

I'm hoping to be able to use the shell as a form for mine when the time comes.

Thanks again guys! The second hoop turned out to be a bigger challenge for some reason...

Last night before going out to a gig at 11:00pm I was pulling the clamps off before the glue set probably about 3 times, to check whether the shape/size was actually going to work. Good thing I did as each time there was a bulge at the join, completely missing the edge of the head.

The bottom line for me was I was unable to do this without using a patch again - I think it relieves some of the stress by having two joins instead of just one. The one join by itself always bulged outward. So the job is more problematic than the first hoop led me to believe - got lucky on that one I guess...I will edit in a warning to the first post of this thread to avoid misleading people.

I switched the first hoop I did to the reso side as I thought it would end up looking better than the second hoop, but in the end the second hoop not only looks fine, but, again ~for some reason~, the patch didn't go as dark after application of the linseed oil. So I think I'll switch them again.

The worst thing about the second hoop is that it does need claw tension, [just a bit] to lightly force it in-round, side-to-side. I am hoping over time the hoop will conform since pressure over time is what makes them deform....fingers crossed.

Couple of pics of the finished hoops on the kick. Hardware is all packed away from multiple recent gigs but when I recover [lol] I'll set it all up and post here.

Mitch

I have uploaded some more pics of my lap joints - look at them, study them...and do it differently!

My joins are a bit "scoopy", as I removed too much material too soon along the lap section of the arc of the hoop; you'll want to cut in very gradually along the arc so that the entire join section retains the thickness of the hoop. You'll see in the pics that the hoop at the join[s] is not bulging out on the outside, but rather "scooping in" along the inside.

Well my middle name is "good enough" so overall I'm happy with the cut-downs, but I do have some sections of the "donor hoop" left over so I might carve out some thin pieces to lay in over the joins, to achieve consistent thickness all around.

About the patch issue and the feasibility of doing this with one join - it may be wise to cut the hoop initially at two points, and use the cut-out section for the patch, instead of making one cut and removing most of the overlap. OTOH my issue with the one-join approach might have been due to the flexibility of the cymbal case I used as a form. If you use a solid wood form with no "give" to it, the one join approach might work. Wish I had more hoops to investigate this with...

Randy I would suggest using a very strong outer form for your job - the sprung tension is quite strong, hard to wrestle the hoop into shape, so having a strong form to lay the hoop into is a big help. With smaller hoops, sprung tension may be even greater than with 25" to 22". Using the drum shell as an inner form might lead to problems and put too much stress on the shell.

On my kit, the lighter-hued maple hoops really helped to make the bass drum look bigger, visually matching it better to the somewhat big-looking Gretsch 9X13" tom.

Mitch

I think you are being way too hard on yourself there. To me, I commend you for having an idea, using what tools and materials you had on hand and you made it work! I think they look great and I still think the splice section and imperfections adds to the character of a very cool looking kit.

Great job!!

When I do get around to doing mine, I'm hoping the fact that I will only be reducing the diameter by one inch will play to my favor.

I may take your advice and create a mold out of two layers of 3/4" plywood and cutting the appropriate size hole out of it to use as a form.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Randy

Thanks again Randy! I just don't want to give the impression that I think this is some kind of fine woodworking I've done here lol. But yeah, wanted to do it, did it, looks cool, all right! :)

True, one inch is a relatively minor adjustment to your 18" hoops. You can likely cut the lap out of whatever overlap you get once the hoop is cut and placed in the form, without removing any material from the cut ends. If the hoops you use are solid, you could steam and form them beforehand, would ensure the join stayed in-round...anyway happy hoop-cutting, and don't forget to post your process!

Mitch

It looks really good. I think you did a good job!

Thanks Gerald! Here's a couple pics with the 8X12" Slingerland up. I really like the 22/12/16 configuration, plus it makes it a Ludwig/Gretsch/Slingerland kit...just need a Rogers in there somewhere...

[edit] Since no one has asked [heh], that diamond plate "cap" on the bass drum where the Tama mount lived is a piece of chromed stovepipe metal, which I cut with very large scissors. If I could find a single tom mounting arm, I'd put the cowbell on there. The hole for that mount is huuuge!

Mitch

I have a 12x20 BDP Ludwig bass drum where someone did the same thing. I took a piece like you did but glued a piece of wrap to it and painted the bolt heads with black paint. The only ones that notice are other drummers that enjoy making critical comments about it. I think your kit looks really cool.

Doing that to a 12X20 seems even worse. I'd love to have a 12X20...without a huge Tama hole in it. At least the mount I have is the nicer older one...not that someone couldn't be found to criticize it lol

Mitch

Mitch... not sure how I missed this thread!

You ARE way to hard on yourself! FYI, many times on refurb kits I have used hoops that are warped a little... your 'bulges' don't look that bad at all!

I'll be keeping this information handy... as I have a lot of broken or otherwise damaged hoops that now I'm thinking can be reclaimed and useful again!

IF I'm able to improve any of the process, I will post...

Thanks!