Ginger Baker used to stack his cymbals using the old Ludwig 1400 flat base stands like in the following pictures. Anybody else ever do this? I can't imagine it being particularly good for the cymbals, but then again, Ginger still owns and plays those same cymbals to this day.....
Anybody ever mount their cymbals like this? Last viewed: 4 hours ago
LD,
I sure did back in the day, mainly because I saw Ginger Baker do it. I used my Premier Lokfast stands (sure wish I still had those), added a felt and a cymbal and then inserted the top rod. Obviously there is no sleeve at that point so I am quite sure that was not a particularly great thing to do for ones cymbals but hey, it looked cool. I believe Neil Peart used to do that with a crash over his ride in the early days as well. Now there are lots of attachments available to make stacking a more serviceable thing though it's tough to beat those clean lines. cool photos. Thanks for posting!
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
I copied Ginger Baker's cymbal stacking for some time around 1969. It worked fine. I also had #1400 stands. The top tier on one of the stands had the "half u-clamp" to hold the top rod. It served as a tilter for my ride cymbal. The down side was there was no sleeve to protect wear to the cymbal around the hole, but I was wise enough to put a felt washer under the cymbal.
In the mid 90's the music store I worked for held a drum clinic with Ginger. I was fortunate enough to spend a whole day and part of the next with him setting up for the clinic. You are correct, his cymbals were in fine condition.
One of the first things I asked him about was his sizzle ride (I've always liked that cymbal). He also told me the story surrounding this ride cymbal with the rivets. While on tour with Cream in the Boston area, Zildjian sent a car to pick him up and take him to their factory. There he selected several new cymbals including this ride. It just didn't sound right to him during sound check, having less than enough sustain, so he borrowed a drill from a roadie, set the cymbal on the beautiful wood floor of the stage at the theater, and proceeded to drill holes for rivets through the cymbal into the floor. I could even see where the drill bit had skipped a bit before getting a purchase on the cymbal.
As a side note, he was one of the most gracious, modest and friendly people I have ever met. When I mentioned to him how influential he had been to so many drummers, he gave me a surprised look as if to say "you're kidding, right"?
Cool1
Now for a related question....does anybody still do this? I'm half tempted to try it, but worried about the end results...lol!
I was not aware Ginger did this, but my ride is set this way with an old Pearl stand. It has a feltwasher, but moves so little there is not keyholing going on (plus no threads to saw into the cymbal).
I run the ride flat and just over my floor tom so tilting is not an issue. (20" Ping ride by the way). I run a 16" med crash above.
Works great!
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
That is a good point regarding the lack of threads. If you wanted to try this and we're really concerned about not having a sleeve you could possibly do a couple of things:
Keep in mind the vertical shaft of a cymbal stand will be a larger diameter than the threaded rod so this may not work, but see if you can find a size vinyl tube at the hardware store that would fit snugly over the cymbal stand but still allow the cymbal to move freely. Of course you would have to slide that to the correct height. Might be a pain to keep it there as the cymbal will want to push the tubing up the stand. Vinyl tubing is all traditional cymbal sleeves are anyway. This would just be thicker.
If that doesn't work, you could try a piece of heat shrink. That might be more apt to stay in place and it would be thinner material unless you used gluing tube. The downside is you would be replacing it fairly often as the cymbal will grind I to it I would imagine.
Let us know how you fared.
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
I thought about shrink tube but you'd have to open up the hole quite a bit (nice if you have cracks there anyway) to fit the shaft AND tubing.
Since it is a smooth, chrome plated shaft, it really doesn't need anything. Mine has been fine for years. (at least ten years now- wait, closer to twenty actually- I'm old!)
Now, if you had a small crash mounted higher this way, it might not like the idea, but to allow as much movement as a crash should have, you'd REALLY have to open up the hole, and I certainly would not do it to any of my cymbals...
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Ginger Baker used to stack his cymbals using the old Ludwig 1400 flat base stands like in the following pictures. Anybody else ever do this? I can't imagine it being particularly good for the cymbals, but then again, Ginger still owns and plays those same cymbals to this day.....
Ginger! The man!Bowing
Looks like a Rogers stick tray in the second pic.
I bought these extension rods in the early '90's at a Mom and Pop music store in my small city. They were called "Staxx" but a google search just now gave no such result. They thread onto the top threads of the cymbal stand and are still tight and non-wobbly.
[IMG][IMG]http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/strider_07/IMG_9878.jpg[/IMG][/IMG]
Cheers!
Strider
I like your Pringles tom there on your left!Falling Do
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
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