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Clamshell Strainer Tricks of the Trade Last viewed: 1 hour ago

Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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This is springboarding off another thread which has good discussion going.

It was a request from member radioking for a value opinion that evolved into a discussion about the clamshell strainer on Radio King snare drums.

Link to member radioking's thread

It's a topic I'm feeling deserves it's own thread so, here we go.

I'm asking about any tips members may have on how they tune up, restore, or tweak the famously finicky clamshell strainer.

It's notorious for being a troublesome beast.

I have one myself, and I'm experiencing problems.

I'd love to be able to play my '58 5x14 Super Gene Krupa, but so far, not a pretty picture.

Here's what I did for a couple of hours day before yesterday:

Yesterday I put on brand new Puresounds on my 58 5x14 Super Krupa hoping the problem has been stretched or worn out original wires.

Not the case though........

I tried everyhing I know including the tricks of the trade I have picked up around here and bottom line is the strainer is just poorly designed.

The single mounting screw for the wires allows for a pivoting movement and if you tighten down enough to eliminate that, it bows the assembly. I put washers on the screws under the wires to narrow the gap between them and the mounting bar, and this places the wires too high.

After two hours of trying all the combos of altered methods of assembly I could think of, I just went back to the way it comes stock, and said SCREW IT !!

[SIZE="2"]So, any help out there ?

Thanks!

Kev[/SIZE]

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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Kev, Wow, sorry to hear you're having so much trouble.

Pics below show my 1958 Super GK with... not one but two... leveling washers on either side.

Notice also that the wire set tab end seems slightly askew, however, somehow it actually aligned itself properly for equal tension side to side, in spite of the screws being as tight as I could make them.

If your problem is the Clams' being mounted too low for the snare beds, it may be that your only solution is to give up on extended wires and jerry-rig attaching a non-extended wire set.

BTW, I responded further in the original thread.

Ron

Posted on 13 years ago
#2
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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Thanks, Ace.

I noticed you aren't using the set screw washer.

Is that by intent?

And your set screw looks to be different than mine, or is it something you

chose to change to get the set-up right?

Thanks!

2 attachments
Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#3
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Ron great stuff thanks for posting. As the saying goes a picture is worth 1000 words I can see lowering the snares with a couple washers would really help. Do you know if the original Slingerland snares for the CS used thicker snare ends or had some kind of spacer shape pressed into the ends? I know from other venues as parts get repopped some things change. Either to fit/work on a broader range of things or by design flaw. And not realize it in the process until the parts are in service.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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From kevins

Thanks, Ace.I noticed you aren't using the set screw washer.Is that by intent?And your set screw looks to be different than mine, or is it something youchose to change to get the set-up right? Thanks!

In your photo, the wires' end piece is shown detached and off center so I can't tell what is happening.

My set screws came with the drum, which I acquired second hand.

It never occurred to me that they might not be original but, in any event, it wouldn't matter so long as the threads are the correct size. They screw directly into the pivoting square bar's center hole.

There is no need for a washer under the screw head. As you can see in my photo, the washers act as shims between the wire set end plates and the attachment bars. On my drum, the snares are a little too tight without the washers. I experimented with washer thickness to achieve the best result. The need for shimming with washers could vary depending on the mounting position of the clams. I suspect Slingerland QC was somewhat variable in the late 50s, if not before!

Ron

Posted on 13 years ago
#5
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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From royal ace

In your photo, the wires' end piece is shown detached and off center so I can't tell what is happening.My set screws came with the drum, which I acquired second hand.It never occurred to me that they might not be original but, in any event, it wouldn't matter so long as the threads are the correct size. They screw directly into the pivoting square bar's center hole.There is no need for a washer under the screw head. As you can see in my photo, the washers act as shims between the wire set end plates and the attachment bars. On my drum, the snares are a little too tight without the washers. I experimented with washer thickness to achieve the best result. The need for shimming with washers could vary depending on the mounting position of the clams. I suspect Slingerland QC was somewhat variable in the late 50s, if not before!Ron

Those set screw washers are factory items, that was what I'm asking.

Do you have yours and elected not to use them?

I just parked it up there to show you how they are used in case you're not familiar with them. Understandably, these go missing lots of times over the years.

I'm experimenting with different levels of washers between the end plates and the pivot bar as we speak, I clearly see them in your picture.

Making progress!

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
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From FFR428

Ron great stuff thanks for posting. As the saying goes a picture is worth 1000 words I can see lowering the snares with a couple washers would really help. Do you know if the original Slingerland snares for the CS used thicker snare ends or had some kind of spacer shape pressed into the ends? I know from other venues as parts get repopped some things change. Either to fit/work on a broader range of things or by design flaw. And not realize it in the process until the parts are in service.

To answer your question in re snare ends: there is no appreciable difference in thickness between the original and the Puresounds. I replaced the original wire set with the Puresounds because the original wire set was a bit misshapen.

The Puresound set is the type with riveted metal straps which came to me mounted on a 1938 RK w/3-point throw. As they were the correct length for the 1958 Clam, I removed the riveted straps (which left holes for the attachment screws) in order to use it with the '58 clam.

BTW, IMHO, those metal strap attachments are awful... being much too inflexible for sensitive snare tensioning.

I replaced the metal strap Puresounds on the 1938 RK with a Pearl extended wire set for $8.99, if memory serves, and it works splendidly!

BTW, my 1938 RK was retrofitted with a later throw which was designed to accept the metal strap mounted wire set.

The original throw would not have had the single screw hole for attaching the metal strap, but rather, a small hole pattern for a cord attachment.

Ron

Posted on 13 years ago
#7
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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Gotta be some more clamshell owners out there with some tips ??

:):)

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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Thanks for starting this thread, kevins! Thank you, Ron, for sharing your tips. I'm mainly posting so I can follow this thread, as I will be tackling mine as soon as the parts for it come in. I should receive them in the next 2-4 weeks, I believe. I'll post again when I get it together and let you know what works for me...at least I pray it works for me. :)

I'm no guru, just a vintage drum junkie!

Psalm 150:5
1945 Slingerland RK sparkling gold pearl 26/13/14/16/early 50s 5.5x14 Krupa RK
1967 Slingerland green glass glitter 20/12/14/Hollywood Ace
60s Slingerland 24/13/16/7x14 project
24/13/16/7x14 project RKs
60s 5 & 6.5 Sound Kings
1942 7x14 WMP Krupa RK
1930s Slingerland Universal
1967 Ludwig Hollywood sparkling blue pearl 22/12/13/16
1967 Ludwig Supraphonic 400 & 402
1965 Ludwig Jazz Fest sparkling blue pearl
1923 Ludwig 5x14 NOB
Posted on 13 years ago
#9
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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Hey Kev, what type of washers are you using? I don't have a clam shell so I am not an expert but have you tried plastic shims? I have a set that I use with my dado blades for my table saw. They come in varying thickness. Maybe you can't achieve the proper spacing with metal washers.

Posted on 13 years ago
#10
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