The technique that I have heard described here is to use a scrap shell of the same dimension and cut pieces to clamp inside and outside. Force glue as deep as you can and clamp it thoroughly.

Never tried it...

I'm sure some other solid advice will be offered.

To add to what Jim said...Insert a round toothpick into the separation carefully to slightly open it...I then put a small bead of woodworker`s glue (yellow) across the top of the separation and let gravity pull it in...Use a flat toothpick to help work it in...Continue to do this until the separation is almost filled...Clamp using technique Jim said...Don`t overtighten because you don`t want to force all the glue out...Let dry for 24 hrs...Remove clamps and "kiss" the area using 220 grit sandpaper...When done, it should be a bond that will last a lifetime...

Vintage Drum Bug taught me this method...I used it to fix a split in a bass hoop and the end result was almost perfect...I could barely notice the repair...

Hope this helps...

Cheers

Hey thanks for the + grantro... question... do you take any special precaution to keep the shell pieces from glueing to the repair.. wax paper or oil the splints.. or anything like that. When you talked about the glue being forced out of the repair it made think it could run down and the glue the shell splints to the drum.

Just curious.

Wax paper should do the trick...Once the shell pieces are removed, a very light sanding with the grain of the wood with 220 grit or higher sandpaper will clean up the area as if it were never even repaired including any pieces of paper that happens to become glued...

Cheers

Thanks!

i'm going to be trying out that method tonight! I'm hoping I can have the wood working skills to pull this off! there are no drum repair shops anywhere around me.

LD91, to me it looks like the shell delamination and ring were caused from excessive dryness. The technique I would try first with the delamination is to use a damp cloth and a hot iron to steam some moisture into the wood to make it more plyable. Lay the dampened cloth over the lifted area of ply and us the iron to steam the moisture from the cloth into the ply. Reposition the cloth over the raised area with a part of the cloth that has not yet been steamed. Repeat about three times. Then use Tight bond brand glue applied just outside the ply. I have some thin metal feeler gauge strips I use to work the glue deep into the separated area. Then I would use two pieces of rubber 1/2" thick 2" square under 2 small wood blocks the same size and about 1/2" thick. Aline the rubber block along the raised edge of the ply place the wood block on top of the rubber and position the other rubber and wood block in alinement with the interior one and clamp gently with a "C" clamp. apply only enough clamping pressure to press out excess glue, wipe off excess with a damp cloth.let set for 24 to 48 hours. The ring could be handled in a similar manner without the use of steam. Although I would introduce some moisture into the joint before gluing and clamping. Just enough moisture saturate all the way through the separated area and dry excess water immediate. Then glue and clamp like before and let set for 24 to 48 hours.

Mighty fine advice!

Not much hope of steaming a shell with the acoustic coating inside tho, right? Specifically, my Ludwig Standards...

well, i've already fixed it (the best i could)

the only thing i see was wrong was when i used the scrap shell pieces i couldn't see the cracked ring and it didn't glue back EXACTLY the shape it was. it's a little off. but i've played about 3 gigs and multiple practices with it since then and is holding up like a champ. it's just not too pretty.