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DIY re-wrap & Removing the Gretsch paper tag? Last viewed: 2 hours ago

Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

Hey y'all, I recently acquired a Gretsch RB that needs to have the WMP replaced. I am THINKING of doing it myself to save $. I know Precision would do a helluva job, and being able to say they did it has cred, and the price is fair, but the DYI aspect appeals.

So: what's the difficulty level of a re-wrap. I viewed the articles, and it LOOKS straightforward in the pictures, but so does an engine rebuild! There's that part about 'trimming the edge very carefully with a sharp blade' that has me a little concerned. I would want it to be straight and even.

Does the wrap extend all the way to the top edge of the shell? Or is there a gap of a quarter inch or so...?

Also - I may want to re-do the interior. Is is possible to remove the paper tag without damaging it? I have used steam on similar car pieces, but this is an unknown territory.

Hmmmm.... I think I need more help than I thought!!

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

Seriously... no opinions?? Or is it just too simple of a question?!

Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

I think using steam on a paper tag is a bad idea. Moisture and excessive humidity curls paper and will "wave" the edges. Back then something called "Gum stock" was used for adhesive tags and labels. It's just a sheet of thin paper with dry gum based adhesive on the back (like on the back of a envelope flap) that was printed on, cut to size and sent to Gretsch for label tags. Cheap and cost effective. You'd simply moisten the back of the sheet and stick it down. They seem to live just fine inside drum shells on Gretsch and Rogers when not exposed to harsh elements. There was no "crack and peel" label stock back then like we have today on a variety of paper and durable plastic (tyvek) stocks. I could go on about the history of pressure sensitive label stocks but I'll spare you. LOL. That said I'd leave the inside as is. ;)

I have been watching all the wrap vids and threads here and have a good feel for it. It does not seem difficult at all..... and yes I have rebuilt some engines before too. LOL. Precision will pre cut the wrap for you if your unsure about cutting the edges. Hopefully some of our "Wrap Masters" will chime in for you soon. I'm doing my 13" shell soon and will post it in my resto thread.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

Excellent information -- thank you!

I think I will send the snare out to have it re-done. That way I'll be sure that it's right.

Because, as you know, some engines have to come apart again becausse of some weird new sound!

DOH

Thanks again...

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

Your very welcome glad I could help. Which wrap color are you doing the aged WMP? That's looking like my best choice for off the shelf colors. Please post some pics when you get it back.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#5
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

Yes, the aged WMP is my pick...

I'll post the pics. I'm sure it will be stellar!

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
Posts: 111 Threads: 26

using the 3M-NF30 cement isn't too difficult. but make sure you have plenty of space to work with, and practice on something first.

this is another good option, that offers a little more flexibility than cement: http://www.drumfoundry.com/p-3335-double-coated-wrap-tape-psa-3-x180-.aspx

just cover the entire piece of wrap with a solid layer of PSA, and it will hold as well as any cement. I would still recommend using cement to secure the overlap, though.

i know ludwig has switched to PSA, and i think a few other companies have as well. easy to use...

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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