Thanks. Maybe I'll try tucking a head for one of my snares.
Drum head advice Last viewed: 2 hours ago
Something else I don't know if everybody is aware of:
When you mount a head on a flesh hoop,
(explanation: I kept on wondering what they meant by "flesh hoop", since they are made of wood or sometimes metal, then it was explained to me that it means " a hoop for the flesh, or skin to be mounted on".............. aha!)
you mount it differently if you know the head will later, in use, be tensioned tight, like on a snare bottom, than you would a floor tom, which would be looser.
When I mounted this slunkmeister last week:
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp231/kaaawa2000/slunk.jpg[/IMG]
I mounted it such that before I put the head on the drum the head was almost tight already, just mounted on the hoop it had resonance... it was like a shelless drum that had tone when tapped. (I do a lot of tapping and listening, I got it from guitar luthiers - it's crucial) That way when it was put on the drum and tensioned there was still some rim protruding.
If I was to mount it on a floor tom, while it was curing (put on the drum wet) I put some weight in the middle so that the fundamental will be predominant over the harmonics (translation - makes people dance) like this:
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp231/kaaawa2000/ftoms.jpg[/IMG]
When I got my Gretsch set in 1972, I was shocked at how high the rims were. I couldn't figure it out until last year - it was so when the calf heads stretched you'd still have some rim protrution (BIG AHA! - only took me 37 yrs)
Another thing is that you can make calf heads for a drum that isn't round and it won't make much difference, as well as doing oddball size shells like this one:
http://musicmusicmusic.cn/wfltompg1.html
Now count in the song will ya?
- Share
- Report