Turtle Wax polishing compound is my favorite. Cheap and easy to find.

Heads: a personal choice that will cause more controversy than a discussion about motor oil when opinions are invited!! What are you planning on doing with the drum? If you are just displaying it, and you have the original heads, there you go - problem solved.

However, if you are playing it, or want that option, you almost have too many choices. First would be calf: expensive, hard to find (compared to a plastic head), and you have to tuck it. Given the date the drum was made, it could have come with plastic heads, so..

My first choice: REMO Vintage Ambassadors. They are supposed to replicate the "original" Ambassador of so long ago. My experience has been to buy carefully - one head can be dead, the next OK (these are dual ply heads and they seem to be inconsistent for some reason).

Second choice: REMO SkynTone. This is another head that mimics calf; I handled one a few weeks ago and thought it was vaguely reminiscent of the original, long-lost FibreSkyn, or perhaps it was the Legacy. In any event, they have a warmth that would be perfect for your drum, with it's vintage bearing edges.

Third choice: REMO Fiberskyn. I'm not a fan of this drum head, which is why I placed it third. It does have the right 'look', though.

SAFE BET: Either a RMO coated Ambassador or a coated Diplomat, especially if you are planning on selling it. A Diplomat-weight in a coated head would be really lively; if you play metal music and believe in playing through the head instead of above it, it wouldn't work, though. Ambassador-weight is safe.

Now I will get out of the way and let others espouse their personal recommendation!

Welcome Are these guys good or what! JC, your post should be published!

Put some calf heads on that set. They are expensive but you will get a great sound here is a link were you can buy calf heads if you decide to do so.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=stern%20tanning%20drum%20heads&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CEoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sterntanning.com%2Fpercussion.htm&ei=mIZVUa_TJYW14APy44HYDQ&usg=AFQjCNGOqOYE_kHVIQ5Anj9tt6S3-t3Ftg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmg

Another option to consider, regarding heads, are Remo's Renaissance series. I've been using them a lot lately - they look great, and I am impressed with the warmness of tone.

Ahh, the Renaissance head. I have to tell you I LOVE this head; everyone at the local drum store frowns at me when I buy them (special order!), especially in a Diplomat weight, since they think it's one of those fancy "orchestral" heads and they of course don't have any idea why anyone would play them unless someone was in... an orchestra (!). This is a great head for jazz, though, and even some pop: I use it on a 6 lug Slingy Student snare from about '66 (matches the Pearl on my 680N set) and it was warm and round sounding, great for brushes. A tad 'soft' feeling on the drum, especially on toms, with a lot of give. They also look great - warm, sorta neutral color, very natural. I didn't mention them because I just didn't think anyone else would know about them!!! This would look and sound great on your drum, if that's the sound you are looking for, and I heartily recommend them over Fiberskyns.

If you want calf heads there's a VDF member who does and sells them. Matt from CT Pro Percussion. I'm saving my bucks to get some for my old set of RK's. Soon~! :)

http://www.ctpropercussion.com/

I like the post by JCCABINETS. There's a lot of good information, and your drum will look much, much better. Without risk.

One difference in what I would suggest: I wouldn't spray the parts with WD 40 to prevent rust. Somewhere along the way whilst restoring old cars, I learned the hard way the while WD 40 is a great penetrating oil for loosening nuts, bolts, whatever, it will get gooey over time.

I have heard that clock repair shops can always tell when the owner has tried to fix something. The guy wil spray WD 40 to lube the parts, and it makes the gears even messier. Then he can't figure out why it's stopped again.

What I learned to use is spray on silicon as a protectant and long term lubricant. In fact, WD 40 (wouldn't ya know) now makes a product called "Specialist" silicon spray. It is said to adhere (right word?) to the surface of what you spray and not drain off. I've had really good luck with it and think it's a cool product.... Very clean. Worked wonders on an amazing WFL Speed King restoration with the original parts, i.e., not drilling out the heel hinge.

I don't know how long it takes WD 40 to turn gunky - I found it is a Fiat 124's electrical system. Hahahahaha. But I'd use the WD 40 silicon spray for restoration work.