The shell was varnished over by the previous owner the grommet isn't even installed. You can try the never dull on the hardware. I've never used that product but am fairly sure it will work just fine.

rewrap it in wmp!

Cool drum!

Shell construction and hardware (minus the P-85 strainer, of course) look just like my '58 Barrett Deems.

That clear finish is not original. You can even see brush strokes in it. The "old lacquer" is long gone.

My educated guess is that it originally had a Duco finish, probably blue, because that's what's left after the incomplete stripping job, and there's no evidence of wrap in the scarf joint.

For me, this would be a strip and refinish, or, probably easier, wrap over the brushed-on finish.

Also, it looks to have a visible ding in the bearing edge, so you might want to see to that.

I've used Nevr-Dull on nickel to good effect.

I've got the best results on nickel using Simichrome polish.

Thanks guys! I love this forum. I can always count on good info here. I'm leaning towards doing a wrap on it. I'm really digging this drum. Plenty of snap, with a nice warm body to it. It's not super loud, but I can tell it's going to record really well. I think it's worth doing a nice wrap and restoring it. There are a couple of local shops. I'll do some research first, but what should I expect to pay for a wrap on this?

If it wasn't originally wrapped then adding wrap may lead to problems fitting heads. Take a look at the scarf joint. If the drum was originally wrapped then the wrap will still be in the joint. If there's no wrap there then the drum was originally either natural wood (mahogany) or Duco paint (in which case it should have a maple outer ply).

The trouble is that at that time the shells were molded with the wrap already in place, or not if it wasn't a wrapped drum, Either way they ended up with the same outside diameter. So if you add a layer of wrap to a drum that is already the correct size (and hasn't had a layer of wrap removed to make it slightly undersized) then the wrap may make it oversized. Not insurmountable but something to be aware of going in.

If the badge is the original one, that's a 48-52 drum. Didn't usually have mufflers in that era. Could have been a special order or added. Holes look pretty close to the round knob version which is what they were using then. A small knob muffler would be correct for it. I've had best results with Cape Cod polishing cloths on nickel. Neat drum!

Mike

Buddy Rich model had a classic strainer. You're drum is drilled for the p83 strainer. Classic strainer (p87) has a different hole spacing. BR Model was 5.5 x 14 in WMP wrap. Your drum probably had a duco finish as others have mentioned. Badge is late 40's - early 50's.

I would sand it and have it sprayed with a duco finish. You'll see these shells sanded and varnished all the time. It doesn't look too appealing this way. give it a bit of color if you can. Natural finish looks a little boring. Just my opinion. If yo can get hold of a WFL p83 strainer you'll be set. Cool drum!

Great drum!

Nickel/Chrome want to get all of the dirt off before polishing. Hot water micro fiber wipe down is always a good start. If not clean the dirt will scratch. Test any polishing products in an out of the way spot. I've found Meguiars Aluminum wheel polish using micro-fibre towels to work the best on Slingerland Nickel plate.

Toss the tension rods in a 50/50 Cleaning Vinegar/Water mix for a day or so and they will be just fine.

Creighton