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Rust Never Sleeping Last viewed: 13 hours ago

Posts: 1867 Threads: 179

So I get these used drums and plan on restoring them, but I do not have the time to detail them right away.

Sometimes years later.

A quick WD-40 wipe down is sometimes all they get.

When I finally get to a detail job, I see that there is rust on the rims and other parts.

So guys, has this rust just been growing and spreading over the 2 years?

Stored indoors with lots of dust and dog hair.

I really need to detail these things right away to stop the aging process.

But I need to have the right "free" time to do it.

Finally restoring my Rogers COB Powertone that I got 4 years ago.

Mucho rust and stuff.

It is finally getting clean and shiny.

Which means I can see all of the scratches and flaws perfectly now.

Now I feel better.

Does that rust keep going until we do the clean and polish?

BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 9 years ago
#1
Posts: 241 Threads: 2

rust is like cancer, has to be removed completely.

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 9005 Threads: 266

I've got even worse news for you, it -never- goes away! Neglect regular cleaning and polishing long enough and it'll be back and some. There is no way to eliminate rust completely. The crap always comes back.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 9 years ago
#3
Posts: 1867 Threads: 179

I here ya brother.

I put all my the metal/chrome surfaces through the motorized polishing wheel.

Including the shell.

I take that rust, small spots and scratches down as far as the polishing compound will take it.

Clean with Laquer thinner.

A little lube and polish.

And then I say.......good enough for me.

I took this Acro shell through the polishing wheel.

Worked real good.

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Acro grey 1 copy.JPG
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BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116

The fact that we are members here, "locks us in" for dealing with rust & corrosion on our gear for life...

I have established, that all of my US/Euro vintage chrome... needs to be overhauled at least once per year.. (MIJ every 6 months)..

We should each be endorsee's for Autosol, Brasso & Dawn, etc..etc..

John

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
Posts: 1867 Threads: 179

I saw "Autosol" open for "Brasso" with "Dawn" as the Headliner back in the 70's.

Autosol stole the show......

You are correct sir.

BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 9 years ago
#6
Posts: 1955 Threads: 68

So for chrome, what is the best compound to use on the buffing wheel? I've been using a red rouge compound, and I'm afraid that might be too aggressive. It definitely is too aggressive for nickel plating, as it started to remove the nickel on a Ludwig claw right down to the brass.

What do you guys use on your buffing wheels?

Mike

-No Guru... still learning more every day-
Posted on 9 years ago
#7
Posts: 1867 Threads: 179

Here is what I use.

BLAEMIRE DRUMS
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Posted on 9 years ago
#8
Posts: 816 Threads: 72

Don't ever use WD40. Rust will just continue, even under a coating of it.

It only displaces moisture and lubricates surfaces temporarily......that's it.

Posted on 9 years ago
#9
Posts: 1537 Threads: 117

A vibrating tumble is the best way to go.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 9 years ago
#10
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