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Speed King repair/maintenance Last viewed: 4 hours ago

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Picked up a Speed King at a garage sale last weekend for $6. The pedal seems

"sticky" doesn't rebound very well. How do you repair/maintain an SK how do you get to the springs, what do you suggest for lubricant?

Also how can you tell the age? I know Ludwig started making SKs around 1950? Am I correct? When did they stop?

1958 Gretsch Kit
1966 Kent Kit
1969 Ludwig Standard Kit
1970 Rogers Power Tone Kit
1970's Ludwig Vistalite Kit
1994 Yamaha Maple Custom
2010 Yamaha Maple Custom
28 assorted snares (including some real crap)
and 1 really nice K Zildjian Istanbul
Posted on 12 years ago
#1
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I know the WFL's are the earlier ones. The later to current ones say Ludwig on the foot pedal. Mine is a late 60s SK.

I refurbed mine recently. Take both screws out of the bottom of the posts, this is how to access the springs and pistons in side. Sometimes they are hard to get out because of all the gunk inside. Pulls these out.

In order to get the end caps off of the sides of the posts at the top, take a rubber mallet and hold the pedal side ways. Hit the side of the posts with the rubber mallet and the end caps will pop off. The bearing are inside here. There should be a bunch of gunk and grime and grease. After taking these bearings out, I soaked them and the springs and pistons in WD40 over night.

Here's a good video on the end caps:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXtrKb1T5N0[/ame]

Found another video:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S10b5ffBwUQ[/ame]

-Justin

"People might look at you a bit funny, but it's okay. Artists are allowed to be a bit different."- Bob Ross

"After silence, that which comes closest to expressing the inexpressible is music..." - Aldous Huxley
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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Well if it's Sticky... then here's the "Sticky" you need to Browse through..

Cheers.

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=3518

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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Thanks Guys, lot of good input. I went back to the past threads, but still having some trouble.

Didn't want to drill or scratch or alter the pedal so I tried the rubber mallet on the goal posts idea but it didn't work, after quite a few hits no movement on the caps. To the point of feeling like I was going to bend or damage the thing.

So I took the bottom screws out and found an almost solid epoxy like grey green substance.. i scraped some out with a screwdriver and then poured paint thinner in the holes. Let that sit over night and one seeped through and leaked out, the other stayed full. Then I managed to stick a coat hanger in and swish it around till I could remove the spring and metal rod in the middle of one post. The other was frozen in place. I used a small drill bit at a slow speed and was able to get up in there. Then filled that post with paint thinner again and left it another night.

Finally able to remove the other spring, got both springs clean, rods out and clean and did the best I could cleaning out the posts but still can't get the rest of the cam out of the post. I was able to free up the movement on both posts. Filled them with WD40, put the whole assembly back together and it works much better but still want to get it entirely cleaned out.

Any suggestions?

1958 Gretsch Kit
1966 Kent Kit
1969 Ludwig Standard Kit
1970 Rogers Power Tone Kit
1970's Ludwig Vistalite Kit
1994 Yamaha Maple Custom
2010 Yamaha Maple Custom
28 assorted snares (including some real crap)
and 1 really nice K Zildjian Istanbul
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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From mcdrummer

Thanks Guys, lot of good input. I went back to the past threads, but still having some trouble. Didn't want to drill or scratch or alter the pedal so I tried the rubber mallet on the goal posts idea but it didn't work, after quite a few hits no movement on the caps. To the point of feeling like I was going to bend or damage the thing.So I took the bottom screws out and found an almost solid epoxy like grey green substance.. i scraped some out with a screwdriver and then poured paint thinner in the holes. Let that sit over night and one seeped through and leaked out, the other stayed full. Then I managed to stick a coat hanger in and swish it around till I could remove the spring and metal rod in the middle of one post. The other was frozen in place. I used a small drill bit at a slow speed and was able to get up in there. Then filled that post with paint thinner again and left it another night. Finally able to remove the other spring, got both springs clean, rods out and clean and did the best I could cleaning out the posts but still can't get the rest of the cam out of the post. I was able to free up the movement on both posts. Filled them with WD40, put the whole assembly back together and it works much better but still want to get it entirely cleaned out.Any suggestions?

or thoughts or ideas without removing the caps?

1958 Gretsch Kit
1966 Kent Kit
1969 Ludwig Standard Kit
1970 Rogers Power Tone Kit
1970's Ludwig Vistalite Kit
1994 Yamaha Maple Custom
2010 Yamaha Maple Custom
28 assorted snares (including some real crap)
and 1 really nice K Zildjian Istanbul
Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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From mcdrummer

or thoughts or ideas without removing the caps?

I'm not sure filling it with WD-40 and using it that way is the best idea. Assuming I am understanding what you've done.

I think if you truly can't get the end caps off the best thing is to soak it in a solvent of some sort. Thinner or grease cutter or something to try and get the the bearings as clean as possible. Flush it and then try and get some lithium or teflon grease up into the workings.

I'd really try and get the end caps off even if you have to drill them and pry them. You can probably pick up some replacements on ebay for cheap if you want them unscathed.

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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Hi I have come across this problem many times, the best way to remove the caps is to warm them with a heat gun this will melt the grease that is holding them in and has gone like glue, then repeat the method of tapping the frame with a soft hammer whilst they are still warm.

They should just fall out hope this helps, Chris

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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I've cleaned out four Speedkings, the hammer bit never failed to get the caps out. I don't have a rubber hammer, so wrapped the post in a towel, if I remember correctly, and rapped away. Pop, went the cap... I don't think you can really damage it with a rubber hammer. Heave away!

/Magnus

Posted on 12 years ago
#8
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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Heave away with caution, though....

The posts can bend....found out the hard way....:)

Kevin
Posted on 12 years ago
#9
Posts: 304 Threads: 16
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I've restored many speed kings and had one cap that just wouldn't come off. I just waved a propane torch quickly across the cap several times and it just popped off. I'm not sure what expands first, the aluminum post or steel cap but it works. If you hold the flame over it too long, you will heat singe the cap. No big deal in my opinion. Watch out, though. The hardened ancient grease turns into liquid goo. The worst kind of goo known to man. Especially when it drips on your pants.

Dave

Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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