Oops. Forgot to post pics..

I've said this before....but.... you want to avoid matching color on a computer monitor. Monitors show color in RGB, red, geeen, blue and each is sometimes adjusted to suit pleasing color we like to see. Printed paper color swatches are in CMYK. cyan blue, magenta red, yellow and black. Those rarely match the real color too. Your best bet is to bring the shell into a local paint store with a colour studio. They can do the best match. Also type of wood can add to the color factor. Lets say maple for instance can add a slight yellowish hue to the stain color once applied. So what may look good on a screen or store swatch may not match that well. Jeff C here is really good at this stuff. Maybe he'll see this and chime in for you on some better options. With time and patience you can get a nice match for this.

Was just reading your other thread....... if your a DIY guy you can get some red-yellow-blue-brown-black etc.... wood dye and tweak the stain color you have to match better. You can start with so many oz's of stain then add so many drops of the color you add to get the best match. Document it so you can duplicate it later if needed. Will take a little testing but it should get you pretty close.

Thanks for the advice Glenn-- I would have to agree with your view on color matching using computer pics as reference. It's just i was looking for a close match that may be lighter or darker in hue or tone, but would look similar. I am a DIY guy when it comes to more simpler tasks, although mixing different color stains together may result in possibly getting a close match, it maybe too much spending for such a small job. When i first went to the hardware store, i brought my hoop and showed it to the salesman. We both compared hoop to swatches and agreed on the summer oak stain, however now i'm thinking the light in the store factored in some unexpected problems with a close comparison. I'm going to see what the SamaN stain swatches have, as i've had great results with it. It only requires one coat, 2 if you're really picky, and dries up faster. Great stuff.. I'm also hoping Jeff C will help with my dilemma..

Thanks again for the advice Glenn !

Cheers !

Rob

Yes indeed light will factor how colors look. Florescent vs natural sunlight etc...... huge difference. If Jeff does not see this send him a PM. He's pretty busy with work I think. Glad to help and keep us updated on your progress!! All the best Rob.

Hello, I did see this thread.

Glenn is spot on about the idea of going to a paint store to have them match stain for you, that will produce your best result. He is also correct about using dyes to make a color, but, I have tried that and found it to be very difficult. The one time I did it was a disaster. The amount of dye used to tint the stains can be so incredibly small it would be hard for you to do it properly. If you do want to play just make sure you get stains and dye from the same manufacture that you know will be compatible with each other.

Or, you might look up an old cabinet maker or furniture maker or even just a good painter and get help that way.

Good luck!

Thanks for responding to this thread Jeff, i really appreciate getting advice from a pro ! ;). I actually found a really close match with the stain that is made locally, is water based and is environmentally friendly, and it looks great so far. Not a super match, but looks nice none the less.. The color is called "Chamois" which is named after a type of Goat-Antelope. I have no idea why they named it that, but i'm assuming that it's because of the color of their fur or skin because apparently the leather made from their skin looks like that color.. But who knows ? All i know is that it's a reddish hue that gives a nice contrast to the bass drum.. I haven't sanded yet, so we'll see what those results show.. I'm having a great time doing this, and it's even cooler that i have professional advice when i need it ! Thanks again to both you and Glenn !

Cheers !

Rob

The best way to get even color "stain" is to seal the wood with a clear first and then applying a tinted clear over that.

The best part is if you really screw up it is a lot easier to strip than stain directly on the wood. This is how I, and a lot of other guitar makers, do sunburst finishes as well as any "transparent" finish (aka stain). It also has a big advantage in that the color is more uniform.