Here's another picture of a Gretsch part that I soaked in vinegar. Don't leave it too long, because it is corrosive. Best of all, a gallon of vinegar is super cheap!
How long did you leave this in? That looks great, I've been fighting with some brass washers and other parts for my 1965 Ludwig Super Classic's re-build. I gott try that!
Yeah I like the old school look too. But I think stripping it is ultimately gonna happen. There are chips falling all over the place from taking the drum hardware off. The Mrs's just made me put it out back after I mentioned lead and she saw flakes every where. Plus I do want to play it without making a mess every time it gets hit.
Anyone know if they offered these drums in natural wood finish back in 48 ?
First strip, then depending on the condition of the bare wood, refinish clear, re-enamel or wrap. If you decide to wrap, first make sure heads will fit over the added thickness.
Those Broadcaster snares would seem to be under-valued at the moment, as compared to RKs, Rogers or later RBs, which is just stupid!.
I paid $495 on ebay for mine a year ago and consider it a super bargain. The pics will show it's condition.
The same drum as mine... with re-rings... recently went for $315, though it was apparently not in quite as good condition as mine, judging from the seller's poor pics.
Given the poor condition of your enamel, I don't believe refinishing will detract from the value or lessen it's salability. In fact, a high quality re-enameling would probably increase it's value.
They are great sounding drums. Of my three RBs... 14x4 and 14x5.5 six ply.... my 1947 6.5 three ply is my favorite. In fact, preferable to any of my three RKs
I acquired the 1939 RK shown below already refinished. A really superb job... possibly by a high-end auto refinisher... indeed better than the original.
Ron
Yeah I like the old school look too. But I think stripping it is ultimately gonna happen. There are chips falling all over the place from taking the drum hardware off. The Mrs's just made me put it out back after I mentioned lead and she saw flakes every where. Plus I do want to play it without making a mess every time it gets hit.Anyone know if they offered these drums in natural wood finish back in 48 ?
I can see that the paint is about to fall off just by looking at it!
Calling in the stripper ! Thanks for the input and I will make sure to post the results.
Thx,
D
Good plan!
Kenny Clarke with his 6.5 Broadcaster:
Yeah I like the old school look too. But I think stripping it is ultimately gonna happen. There are chips falling all over the place from taking the drum hardware off. The Mrs's just made me put it out back after I mentioned lead and she saw flakes every where. Plus I do want to play it without making a mess every time it gets hit.Anyone know if they offered these drums in natural wood finish back in 48 ?
According to the 1941 catalog they offered it in "Dark Mahogany, Duco-white or Duco-ebony, or Two-Tone Duco (any colors), or Pearl finishes (for extra $)". So it looks like Dark Mahogany stain would be the way to go if you want an original unpainted finish.
I wouldn't recommend sanding the finish off - if you do that you'll need to worry about a face mask like Blair suggested. But any of the chemical strippers should work well - just make sure you don't let the chemicals run into the interior of the drum through the holes.
Could you measure the spacing between the throwoff holes? I'm curious if it's the same as the later renown throwoff?
How long did you leave this in? That looks great, I've been fighting with some brass washers and other parts for my 1965 Ludwig Super Classic's re-build. I gott try that!
about 30 minutes. I put a bunch of rusty parts in a Gatorade bottle about 1/3 full of full strength vinegar. I shook the mixture while running back and forth for a pizza. The results were amazing.
jim
According to the 1941 catalog they offered it in "Dark Mahogany, Duco-white or Duco-ebony, or Two-Tone Duco (any colors), or Pearl finishes (for extra $)". So it looks like Dark Mahogany stain would be the way to go if you want an original unpainted finish.I wouldn't recommend sanding the finish off - if you do that you'll need to worry about a face mask like Blair suggested. But any of the chemical strippers should work well - just make sure you don't let the chemicals run into the interior of the drum through the holes.Could you measure the spacing between the throwoff holes? I'm curious if it's the same as the later renown throwoff?
Did a combo of stripping and sanding. Strip first then some light sanding down the home stretch. A buddy of mine had a great mask so I should live to play this thing.
The spacing on the throw off holes is 1 inch between the top and bottom holes (from the center of the screws) and an inch and a half from. Thanks for letting me know about the colors offered I think I am going to go the dark mahogony route.
