Looks pretty virgin to me.

No funny stuff on that one.

That is a Rogers Swivomatic mount. Its supposed to be there.

Now if you want that to go away, there are 4 bolt holes and one larger hole under the center of the mount.

Well yeah got that right. But maybe I wasn't clear. Im proposing that that part is removed and made virgin, basically

I see a loss here !! By the time you fill the holes, clean up the inside, patch the high gloss wrap that will always show repair, you will have a drum not worth what a real virgin tom would bring and basically little more value than what it costs to do all that sh*t !!

If your buyer is looking for a virgin Rogers tom, you think he`ll settle for it !! It`s worth more now than after you alter it !!

Please sell it to someone who will love it as is . . . Cool1

i am in the process of converting a pearl f/glass b/drum and r/tom to psuedo virgin, i cut and roll some s/steel blanks and either glue or screw these in place. depending on your point of view or how you then mount or display your drums, you always have the luxury of converting them back, my point of view is i produce playing kits i'm not a restorer so this works for me.

It sounds like he's not aware there are no virgin Rogers toms (You may want to fill him in). He would be better off looking elsewhere.

That right there^

Knowing a little about the drums one is messing with might be a fair place to start. This is how a mid 60s wood Dynasonic gets snare beds cut into it.

Do you honestly think you are going to make them better by messing with them?

I know this generation of drummers went ape**** over isolation mounts, RIMS, and a host of miscellanious and of course, varing degrees of success by a lot of manufacturers attempting to make a drum hang on nothing. Each bragging about how thier drums are purer, and more resonant than brand X.

Then we see the introduction of something called a two ply edge control head made more like a muffled BD head than a tom head......... which I suppose if you had a generic lighter fluid burn me import kit, heads like that might make it sound good, however, these kinds of heads are going onto X brand custom drums, pearl masters, dw collectors, ... in short, top of the line drums with the hottest and newest selection of mounting possibilities. Something is seriously wrong with THAT picture.

It would be a shame to ruin a vintage set because you think you are improving things. Actually, kind of a stupid thing. And, from experience, a snare stand sucks for resonance. The Rogers Swivomatic system was the absolute BEST in the world at its time and no one else even came close, except of courst the MIJ imports, which copied the Rogers as best they could. As for making a swivo mounted Rogers sound better, ... it aint gonna happen, no matter how you hang it.

I have to agree and disagree with Ploughman on this one:

1.) I would suggest not ruining the value of that drum. If you (when I say "you" i mean the buyer) remove the hardware and fill the holes, then you'll probably have to refinish the interior. You might try filling the exterior holes to "match" but will then decide that the drum warrants a re-wrap because the patch won't look good, especially on a solid color drum. That buyer needs to find an orphan drum in bad shape that needs a re-wrap anyway.

2.) It was suggested to manufacture a cover plate which would be expensive but a good solution.

3.) Take the hardware off and replace with some stainless bolts.

4.) Or do what I do which is leave the drum alone and add a RIMS mount. You can get the drum back to original as quickly as changing a head.

As to Ploughman's comments about isolation mounts and edge control heads, I think Pinstripe and Hydraulic heads came about well before Gauger's concept. You may be rederring to DW's penchant for adding their custom edge controlled heads to their kits. I don't understand that either. I just use a single or double ply batter (depending on the kit an application) and a single ply reso and that is it. Usually coated, but sometimes clear. I for one am a fan of iso moubts for two reasons:

1.) IMO the drums just sound better. Of course that is a subjective comment.

2.) Every drum kit I have mounts on the same "L-Arm" hardware regardless of manufacturer or age. That is a HUGE deal for me and absolutely reason enough.

I agree that the snare stand for a tom dampens the response way too much for my taste and I prefer virgin bass drums. There was a post a few weeks ago about suspension clips for a snare stand that was intriguing.

All of that to say, please don't fill those holes. I am sure someone here would love that tom for an adder or building an orphan kit.

I have to agree with the previous post-and through many-MANY years of experience trying different mounts,stands etc.to achieve maximum resonance.I own a 9/72 Swivo set and the best results I found was to get the toms OFF the bass drum.By stand mounting the 12 and 13,and nothing else,resonance for the toms and bass increased.Please don't drill,cut or alter vintage equipment,unless it's irrepairable to begin with.