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Please help me identify these Slingerlands Last viewed: 31 minutes ago

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From tamadrm

The M stamp on the bass drum interior,indicates that the outer ply was maple,so it was either painted or lacuqered originally.If it were a P,that would mean pearl,and it would have been wrapped,and likely mahogany or maple that had some grain flaws,and not suitible for staining.Finishing a mahogany shell for a stain,after removing the wrap,can be problematic.There are times,the glue used on the wrapping process, will stick to the mahogany so well that when unwrapping,it will pull up pieces of the shell with it,making a staing/lacquer job very difficuly.Use a hair drier or a heat gun,carefully, without overheating/melting the wrap.The other hazard is using too much heat,and setting the wrap/glue on fire.There are some how to's here on the procedure.Just do a search.Maybe youtube can assist you also.Just take your time,work out doors,and wear eye and hand protection,and a filter mask.Steve B

Thank you Steve B for info and advice :D

The kick looks rewrapped and spray painted white... so it's probably mahogany or maple finish originally.

I have removed wrap from several Ludwig kits... if it's glued the same way I think I'll be fine.

Posted on 10 years ago
#11
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From robbie

I called it a mongrel simply because it's made up of drums from different eras; hence the wide range in serial numbers (not to mention the different shells)Slingerland did use a light grey or tan paint in the sixties before they switched to hot lacquer. In my opinion, you could refinish the interiors no problem.Re: the hardware - it could be that the original tom mounts got damaged or stripped out. Or someone just liked the Tama hardware better. I've had a Tama kit and I've always said that the hardware on that kit was some of the best I've ever used.cheers

Hey Robbie

The interiors are not really light gray. I think the photo makes it too light in the color. Just took these photos with my iPhone... no image editing ;)

Don't get me wrong... I like the Tama hardware. Will surely use it on one of my other projects.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#12
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From longjohn

I would say that the last pic (speckled interior) is in fact a Tama..,CheersJohn

Hey John.

That thought has crossed my mind. Which Tamas do you refer to ?

I have looked at some Tamas on the web but the Tama interior seems to have a lighter gray color and it goes all the way around the bearing edge and under the wrap. My toms don't have that... Please see attached photos just took these 2 minutes ago.

Cheers

Henning

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Posted on 10 years ago
#13
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From my web searches... this is the closest I can find. Found this old ebay listing. See attached photo. It is referred to as a Slingerland Spirit 1000. But the toms had those big holed tom holders. And my tom does not have that.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#14
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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The hole spacing for Slingerland floor tom leg brackets is 2.25 inches.....

You may find that is the same for the Tama brackets on your floor tom?

Kevin
Posted on 10 years ago
#15
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From kevins

The hole spacing for Slingerland floor tom leg brackets is 2.25 inches.....You may find that is the same for the Tama brackets on your floor tom?

Hey Kevin.

We use the metric system here... but an estimate... from hole center to hole center 2.042 inch right above 2 inches 5.3 centimeters approx (see photo)

Cheers

Henning

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Posted on 10 years ago
#16
Posts: 2010 Threads: 19
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From cuquito717

Slingerland Id first two numbers quantity made on that run 3rd Number month of the run 4th number date ran and final 2 numers year ran. For example 118987 They made 11 pc on August 8th 1987. This also says you have drums made 1966, 87 and in 1970 some one modified these drums.

Pretty sure that Slingerland followed the same proceedure as Ludwig across town. Pre-numbered badges were applied in a more or less random fashion as part of the drum construction process. As such the numbers can give a general indication of when the drum was made (numbers increased as time went on so higher numbers indicate later production) but there is no coded information of any sort contained within the number that is specific to that drum or the day it was made.

I don't know about Slingerland but Ludwig kept no records whatsoever as far as what drum had what number on it. If Slingerland did keep records of that sort (unlikely) they no longer exist.

Here is the best source of information about Slingerland serial numbers that I have run across.

http://www.vintagedrumguide.com/drcjw/article_2_serial_numbers_page1.html

Posted on 10 years ago
#17
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From cuquito717

Robbi this I got it from the book History of Slingerland drums. It also mention that they had stock of shell dating back when it was the banjo company and sell them as current. They just had to be drill for current hardware. So this can be something old they had with old serial numbers. I can't answer that one, other than quote what is in book.

Hi Cuquito,

I have the book by Rob Cook and don't recall that tidbit being mentioned. Which book are you referring to?

In any case, from what I've seen, Slingerland numbered their drums sequentially, just like Ludwig. Higher numbers mean later production; as on my kit, for example.

Best regards

Posted on 10 years ago
#18
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Does anyone know if this chart is valid ?

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Posted on 10 years ago
#19
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This I got from a 1960 catalog I tried to copy it but my scanner does not work well here is what ist says sorry I could not down load foto from catalog

"'How to Date Slingerland Drum

Slingerland is a drum manufacturer originally based out of Chicago, Ill., that has produced quality drum sets and snare drums since 1928. The drum brand was famously played by Buddy Rich, who's still considered one of the greatest drummers of all time. Clues to be used in dating a Slingerland drum can be found all around the drum and can help you occasionally home in on an exact date of the drum. The lack of accurate serial number recording and large overlaps and reissues of shell veneers and labels can make dating the drums slightly more difficult than other drum brands

1

Take a look at the badge on the drum. The drum badge is one of the easiest ways to accurately date a Slingerland drum. The shape of the badge is a great identifier. From 1928-1948, Slingerland used metal badges with a more floral shape. In 1949 they switched to round badges in solid metal colors. From 1956 on the company began using the oval badge with a black background that you still see on Slingerlands today.

2

Date your Slingerland drum by identifying the veneer of the drum. The veneer is the exterior covering used to protect and color the drum. Slingerland experimented with veneers more than any other company. They have a much larger range of coverings for their drums than almost any other company and many veneers from different years are extremely similar. The veneers were also reissued occasionally and can make dating a Slingerland drum difficult such as the Slingerland finish guide , and compare pictures of your Slingerland drum with pictures of dated veneers. These photos, together with the shape of a badge, can help you narrow your date down considerably.

3

Look at the bottom of your badge and note where the drum was manufactured. Slingerland drum company manufactured drums at many different locations throughout the years. For example, from 1928-61 their drums were manufactured in Chicago. From 1961-86 they were manufactured in Niles, Ill., and for one year from 1965-66 they manufactured their drums in a plant in Shelby, Tenn.

4

Another way you can identifi year of manufactured shell is by looking for serial numbers in most of our shells. The first two numbers indicate how many were manufactured on a special run. The third number will indicate month of manufactured followed by date and year. Not to say this a perfect way to tell year of manufacture but a sure way to say when it was built sepecially for you.

Posted on 10 years ago
#20
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