Yes, we cannot let these accursed *things* get the upper hand! :)
Like I say I'd go straight to Ludwig and see if they have any ideas for a replacement, since they may have been asked about this many times. Alternately it might be fun to check out all the "All Spring Co" establishments that carry every type of spring known to humanity!
...now just for fun, notice any important components that *aren't mentioned or pictured* in the attached Ludwig sploded view diagram? Too much lol!
Mitch
Robyn, sorry I haven't checked in lately, busy busy. Sounds like DTF nailed it.
I would take your spring to a hardware store and look for a replacement , via Olimpass' pics. Perhaps even take the tube to ensure the washers fit inside.
I'll bet if you weigh your 2 cymbals, the new one is heavier...
Robyn….. what happened?
[LEFT][/LEFT]
i have pretty much come to the conclusion that the spring is worn out. ive taken the stand apart and put back together a few times now. ive got it working somewhat if i open the hats over an inch apart.
im like you, im pretty sure Mitch has given a proper diagnose with his explanation. so yes i am looking for a spring to replace old one. its kinda funny....when looking at the spring and boinging it my hand, it appears to be 100% functional. but after putting it back together it only works halfa$$. basically. ..its time for a new spring. oh yeah and, when i put the litest hats on. i can close the hats to less then a half inch and still get bounce back.
thanks for your interest and checking up on me.
Just a silly little idea but while you're looking for a new "main" spring, if you come across a smaller spring you could maybe install it between the hats themselves [clutch being top stopper and cup being bottom stopper]. Don't know if anyone's ever tried that but it's the same concept, just different location of the/a spring.
Also a stock car friend of mine told me that automotive suspension springs [compression] become stiffer when cut shorter. Thus if you could replicate the stopper "tabs" lower on the rod [small hose clamp and washer], and cut the spring shorter, it might once again provide full bounce-back.
Just a couple ideas....:)
Mitch
I was thinking about this and realized - if you lower the stop-tab position, you wouldn't need to cut down the spring, as the lower stop would increase the bounce-back all on its own. A while ago I bought a bunch of these cylinder sections with allen key fasteners [pics attached]. The OD on them is 5/8" and the ID is 5/16". They fit over the hihat rod on my Pearl stand, and would likely fit inside the upper tube of your Ludwig stand. You'd probably have to instal the rod with the stopper attached and then the tube over it, but I think it would work - you could experiment to find the right position.
Let me know if you want me to send one to you, fully gratis. I'd be interested to know if it worked...
Mitch
hey Mitch, you may be on to something there. im willing to give it a shot. about how far below the stoppers do you recond i should place it. guess i could try it at different levels. sounds good, send me oneof them and ill check it out. heck we may have a patain here.
Well the little thingy itself is a tick under 1/2"....okay it's 1/16th" under but I like using the word "tick".
I would start by placing it just under the existing tabs. Springs are interesting animals physics-wise, so that extra 1/2" might be all you need. Then if not, go another 1/2" &etc & etc.....
If the allen screw is not up to the job of preventing slippage [up along the rod], spacers will be required - recommend aluminum tubing butted up against the original tabs....at which point the stopper is of course redundant but I am confident it will hold. If it does I think it will be a relatively elegant fix - small and simple.
Send me your address in pm and I'll ship it Monday or Tuesday...with pleasure. :)
Mitch
you are awesome Mitch. PM on its way. Thank you.
Robyn, once you decide if the collar and allen set screw is a good fix add a drop of GREEN loctight to the threads of the allen screw. Green is the grade used for set screws and the likes. This will assure the screw stays in place and not come loose or back out. And the green grade will allow the screw to be removed. Here's a good webpage........
